CATS
We always have cats at the Centre that are looking for a good home, especially in kitten season! To adopt one of our cats you will need to come in and have a good look at what we have. Once you have decided on a cat, or in most cases the cat has decided on you, we can do the adoption there and then.
As with dogs it is our policy that all cats being adopted from us must without exception be de-sexed. If it is de-sexed already you can take the cat home with you the same day. If it needs to be done we usually book it in straight away and you can pick it up from the vets when it's been done. De-sexing is included in the purchase price as is the first vaccination. Your cat will also come to you fully up to date with its worm and flea treatment.
You will need to know that you cannot let your cat out of your house for at least 10 days. We cannot make this point strongly enough. If you let it out before 10 days you run a very high risk of losing it, and many have.
GETTING USED TO YOUR NEW CAT
Fresh, healthy food: Use a commercial cat food which is scientifically formulated to provide adequate nutrition.
Free access to water: Check your cat's water bowl each time you feed him.
Litter Box and litter: Be sure to clean it daily.
Cat-safe toys: Try to vary the collection with some the cat can play with while you are out and some that you can use for interactive games.
Scratching post or flat cardboard box with scratch material inside.
Pet carrier: Use this to transport your cat every time the cat travels, either by plane, train or automobile.
Bed: Most cats like the soft beds either flat or rounded with sides.
Brush kitty regularly to remove dead skin, dirt, and loose hair. This is especially important during shedding season (spring and early summer) to prevent ingestion of hair balls.
CAT PROOFING YOUR HOUSE, especially for kittens
Cats, especially kittens, are curious and will explore everywhere. Cat-proofing is important.
Remove toxic plants: Many plants are poisonous to your cat if ingested.
Store antifreeze in closed containers out of reach of your pet: Its sweet smell and taste are attractive to your cat, and can be fatal.
Put away tablecloths: This will remove the temptation to climb up on tables and break your best china or injure himself.
Pack away precious breakables: Your cat may jump on furniture and accidentally knock over fragile items.
Unplug dangling electrical cords or tack them down: Your cat may try to chew on cords, so it is best not to risk electric shock.
Securely store hazardous materials: Put away products such as insecticides, poisons, medications, and cleaning supplies.
Close the dryer door: Cats love to explore, especially dark, quiet places. Check inside any large appliance before closing the door.
Keep screen doors and windows latched: With a little push on an unlatched door, your cat could slip outside unnoticed.
Attach an identification tag and a small bell on your cat's collar.
Be careful when disposing of kitchen scraps, especially bones: Bones are dangerous, especially soft bones such as fish. Bones can lodge in your cat's throat and cause choking or fatal punctures.
Balls of yarn and loose string are unsafe: There is a danger of choking or strangling. Keep these things out of reach when you are not there to monitor play.
Never leave a burner turned on unattended on the stove.
INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO THE HOUSE:
Confine your new cat to a bathroom or spare bedroom, with a litter box, food and water bowls, and bedding. He will probably head under a bed or some other hiding space. It might be a few hours (or even a few days) before he feels safe enough to come out. Close off as many rooms as possible. Open them as your cat becomes familiar with the house. Let him explore. If you cat goes where he is not allowed, give him a firm "NO" then remove him to where he is allowed.
INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO THE FAMILY:
Let your cat initiate the friendship. He may retreat when you enter the room. Sit quietly and wait. When he emerges do not make any sudden movements or try to catch him. Talk softly to him and let him come sniff you when he is ready. Place treats nearby to lure him out. When your cat realizes you will not hurt him, he will eventually come out.
INTRODUCING YOUR CAT TO OTHER PETS:
Some pets will never become friends, but may merely co-exist (some may even be a danger to the other pet). At the very least, it takes time for pets to adjust, especially for the resident pet to allow another animal into its territory. Do not ignore your original pet! He needs to feel loved.
To introduce the cats, keep them separated for a few days, allowing them to smell the other's bedding. Rotate the bedding to help them adjust to the new smell. Let the cats sniff at each other under a door. After awhile, let the cats meet. There may be a lot of hissing. While the first encounter may seem hostile, allow the cats to work it out on their own. It will go faster that way. If the cats start to fight, do not separate them by hand. Spray them with water, and then close the door. Try again a few days later.
When your cat meets your dog, introduce them in much the same manner as with cats. Keep your dog on a leash. Do not allow your dog to chase your cat. Supervise all initial meetings.
INDOOR VS. OUTDOOR:
"Isn't it cruel to keep him inside?"
While there is the romantic vision of the outdoor cat lounging on the porch and hunting in the woods, the real picture is less ideal. Outdoor cats risk injury by cars, eating poison, drinking antifreeze, or fighting with other animals. Other outdoor hazards include abuse from angry neighbors, extreme weather, fleas and other parasites or infections passed on by other cats.
Indoor cats have an average life expectancy of 15 years, but it is not unusual for them to live to 20 years. Outdoor only cats have a life expectancy of only 1 to 3 years!
Indoor life provides all the pleasures of outdoor life without the dangers. Most of a cat's life is spent sleeping, with much of his remaining awake time spent...just watching. Unlike dogs, cats do not run around to explore, but scan their surroundings visually, and employ their sensitive hearing to detect subtle changes.
Cats spend considerable time grooming, stretching, sunbathing, and moving from one lounging place to another. While these acts seem simple, they are integral to a cat's life.
Give your cat a nice window ledge with a view. Leave cat-safe toys and treats, and keep the radio on when you are gone. Your inside cat will be in paradise.
CATS AND THEIR CLAWS:
Scratching is natural to cats. Kittens are curious and inquisitive and use their claws to explore the world around them. All cats scratch to condition their claws and to exercise their paw muscles.
THE SCRATCHING POST:
Have a scratching post available. A carpeted post or a sisal post, etc. can be used. Place some cat-safe toys or special treats and goodies nearby, or rub catnip on the post to lure your cat to the area. He will soon learn that this is his scratching station.
There are several safe and inexpensive ways to keep your cat from injuring you or your furniture with inappropriate scratching. Two of the most popular ways are:
Soft Paws - Soft Paws are vinyl caps that attach with adhesive to fit over a cat's claws. While protecting people and furniture, the caps allow the cat's feet to remain intact. Soft Paws are available through your veterinarian.
Nail Trimming - Decrease the need for your cat to scratch by trimming his nails. You can use ordinary human-nail clippers. By gently applying light pressure to the paw with the thumb and forefinger, you can extend the nail. Do not cut into the pink portion of the nail (the "quick"). This is the blood supply to the nail and is painful to your cat if it is cut. If you are not experienced with trimming kitty nails, ask your veterinarian for a demonstration. It’s important to be calm and work patiently.
THE LITTER BOX:
Most cats were taught by their mother as kittens how to use a litter box. Most adult cats need only to learn where the new litter box is located; some need a little more instruction. Confining your cat to a small room initially is the best way to foster good litter box habits. Provide a quiet spot far from high traffic areas for your cat's litter box.
Cats may not use a litter box for a variety of reasons. If your cat will not use the litter box, try:
Switching brands of cat litter. A cat has very sensitive paws and a sensitive nose. Consider the texture, quantity and scent of the litter that you buy.
Moving the box to a quieter location. Cats are very private creatures.
Cleaning the box! Daily cleaning often is needed. Do not use ammonia-based cleaning products as they have a smell similar to urine.
Consulting a veterinarian. Inappropriate elimination may be a medical problem.
DOGS
The first step to adopting one of our dogs, is to come in and tell us of your interest. We will then get you to fill out our Animal Adoption form and a Dog Adoption Application. Once the adoption forms have been approved by the manager and a property check has been carried out you are then able to foster one of our dogs for a two week trial to see if you all get on.
If you don't all get on - bring the dog back and better luck next time. If you do all get on... great! You can then adopt the dog.
We will need to get your new dog registered with the council on your way in to adopt it, so we can take those details from you. We ask you to bring the dog in with you so we can take our collars and tags off them, and of course we always want to say goodbye! Transfers to other municipalities can be arranged prior to letting out.
it is our policy that all dogs adopted from us are de-sexed with no exception. This is included in the purchase price as is the first vaccination.
Your dog will also come to you fully up to date with its worm and flea treatments, and it will also be microchipped if necessary at the same time. Which dogs have to be microchipped? All puppies over the age of three months, and any dog that is being registered for the first time. Puppies under this age get a de-sexing voucher.
WHAT TO EXPECT FROM THE NEW DOG:
You’ve just adopted a dog and committed to a lifetime of love, affection, companionship – and care. Your dog is dependent on you for the essentials of life. Here are some tips to get you and your new member of the family off to a good start and an enjoyable life together.
If you're adopting a puppy, know that he may be frightened when you bring him home. He’s been taken to a strange new place. Although everyone will want to meet and play with the puppy, keep the initial interactions to a minimum.
Expect him to actively explore and investigate everything. "Puppy-proof" your house (place shoes in a closed closet, cords out of reach, clothes off the floor).
Your adopted adult dog may present you with some challenges. Unlike a puppy, an adult dog already comes with some habits, good and bad. You can never know what his life was like before, so take nothing for granted.
ADJUSTING:
The ideal life for a dog is with a family. Dogs are pack animals who need relationships and rules to survive. Your family has become this dog's pack, and it is important to know where he stands. He must listen and respect the word of everyone, even the children. All family members must know the rules and commands for the dog and practice them consistently.
HOUSE TRAINING:
Patience and praise are key in house training your puppy or dog. DO NOT hit or scream at your dog. He will learn better from love than from fear.
Until a new puppy is house trained, confine him to a small area, like a kitchen. Make this your puppy's domain until he is reliably house trained.
Even an adult dog that is housetrained can forget his training after an extended shelter stay. Confine your new adult dog to a small area just as you would a new puppy, until he is reliable.
If your puppy or dog sniffs the floor excessively or circles a certain area, he probably has to go out! Take him outside immediately.
Lead him to a designated area outside, and do not, distract him while he sniffs around and eliminates. Praise him when he does his "duty."
Set up a regular schedule for feeding your dog so you can determine when he will need to eliminate. Younger puppies are usually fed three times a day, and older puppies and adult dogs twice a day.
Establish a routine of going outside: First thing in the morning, when you get home from work or school, approximately one hour after he eats, just before bedtime, and after vigorous play or exercise. Very young puppies may need to be taken outside as often as every two hours.
If you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the house, say "NO" and quickly take him outside: DO NOT RUB HIS NOSE IN HIS MESS! This is degrading and inhumane and is not effective. Do not reprimand your dog if you did not catch him in the act. He will only associate the punishment with you, not with the act.
PAPER TRAINING:
Puppies that must be left alone for extended periods of time may need to use the paper while you are away.
Keep the puppy in a confined area and place the newspapers away from his food, water bowls and sleeping area. (Dogs are naturally clean animals who are averse to eliminating where they eat and sleep.) Begin with a large area of newspapers. As your puppy begins to eliminate on the papers, you can reduce the area.
When you come home, take your puppy outside immediately! Do not excite your puppy before you get it outside, or he may not be able to "hold it."
While you are home, take away the newspapers and take your puppy outside to eliminate.
Eventually your puppy will be able to "hold It" while you are away, and then eliminate outside when you come home.
ACCIDENTS:
Even after house training, your dog or puppy may have an occasional accident in the house. Don't assume you just have a bad dog.
Ask yourself these questions:
Did you keep your pet on a schedule with feeding and going outside to eliminate?
Did you use a pet odor neutralizer on the spots where accidents occurred in the past, so your pet won't be tempted to use the area again?
Could the accident be caused by a medical problem? Check with your veterinarian.
OBEDIENCE TRAINING:
You wouldn't bring a new baby home from the hospital and just "let it loose" in the house without supervision, would you? Just like a baby, your new puppy or dog will need to learn good doggy manners. Teach your new puppy or dog what is acceptable behavior in your house. Obedience training is a fun way to spend quality time with your dog. There are many good books and videos on obedience training, but it is also recommended that you and your dog attend a class.
BASIC CARE:
Dogs can't be happy and healthy all by themselves -- they need your help.
Help your dog stay in shape with regular exercise, such as walks and playing fetch.
Brush your dog regularly - A daily brushing will help keep your dog's skin healthy and give him a more lustrous coat. It loosens dirt and dead hair and keeps your pet cleaner between baths.
Choose an area for your pet's "bed" - Use a crate, or put down a pet bed, a pad, a rug, or blankets. This will be his own special place.
Take your dog to the veterinarian for regular check-ups and vaccinations.
Get an adjustable collar for a puppy. Check it frequently and adjust it as your puppy grows.
Set your adult dog's collar so it is not too tight (or too loose). You should be able to get 2 fingers between the collar and the dog's neck.
Get your dog an identification tag that has the dog's name and your phone number on it.
Register your pet.
SMALL ANIMALS
We quite often have small animals such as rabbits, guinea pigs, rats, and chickens looking for good homes, even the odd turtle! To adopt one from us you will need to have a good pen for them at home. We don’t de-sex small animals but they will come to you fit and healthy. (We wouldn’t release an animal unless it was!) Adoptions can be done there and then, all you will have to do is fill out an Animal Adoption Agreement form (see link above) and a contribution, and it’s as easy as that. We will also give you anyinformation you will need about feeding.
